All Chef Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.